PILLING, ABRASION RESISTANCE, SEAM SLIPPAGE, AND COLOURFASTNESS

Abrasion resistance testing
Unravelling textile testing | Abrasion resistance
All James Dunlop and Mokum textiles are tested for pilling, abrasion resistance, seam slippage, and colourfastness in Melbourne at an independent laboratory. The testing criteria are amongst the most conservative in the world due to the extremely harsh environmental conditions we face in Australia and New Zealand, and the results provide critical information about a textile’s durability and suitability for certain applications.
In this article James Dunlop and Mokum design directors, Stephanie Moffitt and Annie Moir, share their expert knowledge, answering several frequently asked questions in relation to abrasion resistance.
What is abrasion resistance?
What is abrasion resistance?
Abrasion resistance determines a textile’s ability to withstand the deterioration of yarns through surface friction, as would occur from the contact rubbing of fabric on a chair or sofa.
Martindale Cycles vs Wyzenbeek Double Rubs
Martindale Cycles vs Wyzenbeek Double Rubs
Martindale Cycles is the British Standard, recognised in Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Wyzenbeek Double Rubs is the North American standard.
They are mutually exclusive tests performed on different machines with different methodologies, so a high result in one test does not determine or infer a high result in the other, they stand as separate results without correlation.
How is the Martindale Cycles test performed?
How is the Martindale Cycles test performed?
A fabric swatch is wrapped around an oscillating head and rubbed against a standard abradant (wire mesh or cotton duck) in an irregularly looping figure-8 type motion. The machine is motor driven, and an electronic digital counter measures the number of loop cycles or rubs.
The test is concluded when two adjacent yarns break, or in the case of a pile fabric (such as velvet) when the pile has completely worn away, or when the count reaches 100,000 rubs – whichever comes first. The machine is switched off at this point because a result higher than 100,000 rubs is not thought to be an indication of increased lifespan.
The test is performed four times with a final average drawn and recorded on our sampling as a numerical rub rating.
How is the Wyzenbeek Double Rubs test performed?
How is the Wyzenbeek Double Rubs test performed?
The Wyzenbeek Double Rubs test is performed in a similar way. A series of swatches are rubbed against a stationary abradant but instead of rubbing in an oscillating motion, it moves backwards and forwards in the warp and weft yarn directions.
The test also concludes when two adjacent yarns break, or the count reaches 100,000 rubs. Across the various tests, an average is drawn, recorded, and listed on our sampling. Essentially, the higher the number, the better the resistance to surface abrasion.
How should we interpret these numbers?
How should we interpret these numbers?
The number is an indication of the level of surface resistance. Essentially, the higher the number, the better the resistance to surface abrasion.
For example, James Dunlop’s Grounded upholstery lists a Martindale result of 50,000 – this implies that Grounded will likely withstand 50,000 circulating rubs in an isolated spot before the yarns begin to break. When you think about how long this would take to occur in reality, this is an extremely high number.
Why might a textile receive vastly different results between Martindale and Wyzenbeek?
Why might a textile receive vastly different results between Martindale and Wyzenbeek?
An abrasion result is greatly influenced by the yarn and construction types, which react differently to stress – as Martindale is performed in a circular motion and Wyzenbeek back and forth.
For example, James Dunlop’s Grounded achieves a result of 50,000 Martindale Cycles and 100,000 Wyzenbeek Double Rubs (both heavy duty commercial results). The difference is likely attributed to the woven construction which is more durable against the back and forth motion.
When in doubt, we always suggest referring to the usage noted on our website and sampling, to be confident you’re specifying a fabric that is fit for purpose.
Are these tests a reliable indicator of durability?
Are these tests a reliable indicator of durability?
Abrasion resistance or ‘rub rates’ provide useful information about a textile’s potential durability, but they are not the single most important consideration when determining the likely performance of an upholstery fabric.
It is likely that an issue could arise from seam slippage or pilling due to daily use long before the fabric will show signs of damage from abrasion. It’s also critical to consider maintenance factors such as cleaning, because an abrasion test is not a mark of its day-to-day care, but an indication of surface wear. To help, we always ensure care instructions and any relevant finishes on the cloth that may contribute to care and maintenance are noted on the website and sampling.
It’s not uncommon for us to hear “I want to reupholster my lounge room sofa, and it needs to have 100,000 rubs.” We need an industry reset on this issue. It’s important to note that according to Australian standards 20,000 Martindale Cycles is considered heavy duty residential and exceeding 30,000 Martindale Cycles is a commercial rating, provided all other required upholstery tests are also achieved.
Remember that an abrasion test – for residential or commercial – is only part of the puzzle of considerations.
One of many considerations
One of many considerations
It’s important to understand that abrasion results are just one piece of the puzzle, and they shouldn’t be viewed in isolation.
The recommended fabric usage is determined by considering all relevant external test results (never just one result) as well as years of industry experience relating to the inherent characteristics of specific constructions and compositions.
Clients should adhere to the recommended usage and care instructions when determining appropriate specification, as well as consulting your upholsterer to raise any textile requirements specific to your chosen furniture frame.

