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Journal

Proposte 2023

A REVIEW OF THE COLOUR, DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION, AND TECHNOLOGY TRENDS AT THIS YEAR’S FAIR

Held each spring on the picturesque Lake Como, Proposte is a key trade fair in our designer’s calendar. An event where mills from Italy and around the world gather to showcase their latest textile constructions, colour palettes, designs, and technological innovations.
 
Read on to discover which trends caught the attention of Mokum and James Dunlop’s Design Directors, Stephanie Moffitt and Annie Moir.

Villa d'Este, Cernobbio

Villa d'Este, Cernobbio

COLOUR

We saw an abundance of warm, spiced hues across all constructions. Rich browns and pigmented tones of terracotta and adobe were accompanied by clean peach and bold citrine. In contrast, unapologetically confident colours appeared across chunky, textural weaves and liquid velvets, juxtaposing the earthen palettes with an injection of glamour.

DESIGN

Heritage textiles including woven tapestry and Chinoiserie designs continue to be pushed to the fore in contemporary iterations, whilst traditional printing mills are returning to their own archives to replicate tapestry and handblock prints. Alongside these decorative designs we saw a resurgence of stripes, tweeds, and checks printed and woven in flat and dimensional weaves, while classic plaids were presented in wide-open and relaxed interpretations across upholsteries and draperies.

An embroidered interpretation of a traditional tapestry design

An embroidered interpretation of a traditional tapestry design

CONSTRUCTION

Boucles and dimensional weaves continue to reign, surpassing trends to cement themselves as contemporary classics. Decorated by metallic threads, a sense of glamour is added to the organic, open weaves, tweeds, and boucle constructions to enhance these traditionally dry textiles. Beyond upholsteries, boucle is being woven into draperies and even sheers in a wide variety of colourways, as the complexity in depth and density of the pile develops.

TECHNOLOGY

The technical developments of outdoor textiles continue to highlight dimensional textures, mimicking the look and feel of indoor textiles in high performance constructions. Additionally, sustainable constructions are being developed at an exciting pace. We saw compositions including seaweed and banana peel, and an abundance of recycled polyester alongside certified organic natural fibres.

Indoor boucle constructions in an earthen palette

Indoor boucle constructions in an earthen palette

Discover more about Italy's colourful textile history and Mokum's close relationship with mills in the Prato region in our previous article Made in Italy, and look forward to our designer's experience of Milan Design Week in our next edition of Yarn.

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